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I learned that the traditional Indian blend podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if made of wood, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams waxy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic cloves, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
Forty milliliters flavorless oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Preheat the broiler to its highest setting, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, sprinkled with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.