The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish berries on a rambling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.

"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of growers who make wine from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Across the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from development by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a barrier on

Kim Adams
Kim Adams

A tech enthusiast and lifestyle blogger passionate about sharing innovative ideas and personal experiences to inspire others.

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