Bethlehem's Holiday Tree Illuminates for the First Time After the Outbreak of the Gaza War
For two years during the conflict in Gaza, every festive public event for Christmas were cancelled in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where Christians believe the birth of Jesus occurred.
However, after a recent truce, the holy city decided that now celebrations would make a comeback, as symbolised by the illumination of its traditional, large holiday tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured two difficult years without celebration; no holiday, no jobs, no income," states the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and tourism was down to nothing."
He acknowledges that the idea to restart festivities faced some debate, as suffering continues in Gaza – which affects members of the small Christian population, many of whom have relatives in Bethlehem.
"Some may say it is unsuitable while others contend it is fitting," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I felt that this was the correct action to take because Christmas should never be stopped or cancelled. This is the light of hope for our community."
A Glimmer of Festivity Reappears
Residents – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – take photographs before the tree decorated with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a small number of foreign tourists.
Vibrant lights now decorate the streets with signs promoting Christmas bazaars and festive events for children.
"We're very happy to have the tree, first thing, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its true spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where it all started, so this is where we can send the message globally about what really Christmas represents. And this year, if the season is calm, then I hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."
Economic Prospects and Difficulties
Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light Christmas trees in the coming days. Hotels – which have stood largely empty for the past two years – are seeing a rise of bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view everyone needs to come at minimum one time during their lifetime," she states.
"I wish a lot of people will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The sole aspect that's good is that you don't have lengthy queues – you can come and experience more. When I came before it was necessary to wait in a queue for a few hours minimum."
Currently, the gift shops scattered throughout the city experience scant trade, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the Fourth Century, tour guides largely stand idle. Prior to the conflict, it was typically packed with visitors.
"Bethlehem is a tourist city; absent visitors there is no livelihood," laments one guide Hamza. "We aspire to see individuals returning like before: from Europe, the Middle East, America, Latin America and all over. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
Over the last two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the deadly attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank region have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work.
At the same time, government employees have been paid only partial salaries by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The Authority relies on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is currently holding – amounting to $1.76 billion, as reported by a UN agency.
Israel says they are retaining these funds because the PA makes financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise violence against Israelis. The authority – which has been under global pressure to enact reforms – claims it has recently changed its welfare system.
A Modest Christmas Season
The bleak economic outlook implies that for numerous Christian Palestinians, even though there are now public events in addition to religious services, it will be an austere Christmas.
On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We are getting ready for Christmas following one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as a Christian community," says Alaa Salameh, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He says that recently many families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional snack.
"Christians will try to celebrate but based on their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festive event or the theatre or similar, they lack the money to expend on these celebrations."
Hopes for Calm and Recovery
In the cave-like grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a resident accompanies a small Indian tour group, stooping down near a silver star that indicates the location where tradition states Jesus was born and igniting a candle close by.
Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, people in Bethlehem state they are praying for peace – and wishing for tourists to come back to the location which is thought to be where Christmas started.